Is White Gold Real Gold?
Mary Murtha

Defined Tag: White Gold.

Gold is a precious metal whose yellow color gives it its traditional characteristic. But white gold is not yellow; it is more reminiscent of silver. So what basically is it all about?

White gold is obtained by mixing yellow gold with other metals. Resulting is an alloy, which is light grey in color. It is a fact that the metal in itself does not have the lustrous, shiny ‘white’ color seen on the finished jewellery. A metal, Rhodium, which is plated on the alloy, is responsible for that white appearance. Rhodium provides a distinctive and very reflective shine, and it also prevents oxidation of some of the metals contained in the alloy. Rhodium is similar in many instances to platinum. White gold and platinum are often misunderstood to be the same thing, but they both have very distinctive characteristics.

White gold is available in any karat, but the most common ones are 18kt, 14kt, and 9kt. The alloy is made with a basic amount of gold- 750 parts per thousand- and it is the remaining 250 parts which determine the end result. White metals like silver and palladium are common mixes. The choice of the alloying metal will determine the bleaching degree and effect on the gold used. Nickel, palladium, and platinum, are considered heavy bleachers, while silver and zinc are moderate, the other white metals considered too weak.

This led to mostly two categories of the alloy- nickel-white, which was colder in color, and palladium-white, which had a warmer tinge. Nickel used to be the preferred bleacher in this alloy, but since it can cause allergic reactions in many people, its use has slowly dwindled down to virtually nonexistent, to be replaced by less allergenic metals.  Red rashes and skin irritations are known as common occurrences of allergy to nickel. According to European legislation, nickel is slowly being phased out of white gold production. Countries like Japan and China are also following upon the same path. Other countries take a more relaxed approach and require a labeling of jewellery as nickel-containing.

White gold has been experiencing a surge of popularity lately, as more and more people go for its distinctive appearance. Most engagement and wedding ring sets are now available in this metal. It is considered trendy and fashionable, especially by younger age groups, and is often used in jewellery with diamonds and other stones, to offset the stones. It was actually created in the 1920’s as a substitute for platinum, making it a cost-effective choice. Platinum, which boasts the same shiny white appearance as the Rhodium-coated alloy, is almost thrice as expensive. However, in some cases, the alloy can be coated with platinum or palladium.

Caring for this type of jewellery pertains mostly to the electroplated Rhodium coating on it. Though hard wearing and very resistant, Rhodium has been known to wear out over time. Jewelers usually recommend a Rhodium plating every 12-18 months on a piece of frequently worn jewellery.

Care should also be taken when using chemicals on white gold. It has been known for chemicals to weaken the prongs holding set stones on white gold rings. As a rule, all jewellery should be removed before handling any chemical, even a mild one.

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      Mary Murtha